On first inspection, it looks like the diode in the switching power supply is trying to escape the PCB. I don't think that overheating could cause this without scorching the board, someone probably attempted to desolder this. My multimeter confirmed that this diode was a short circuit, so that's probably the fault. The diode is an SS14, which is also the same part used for input polarity protection. The switching IC is a CS51413 buck regulator.
I removed the diode and still measured a short across it's pads, so the switching chip is probably bad. That came off as well.
I
ordered a replacement CS51413 but actually received a CS51414, which
was annoying. However, the CS51313 and CS51414 are very similar, the
'313 has an external sync pin where the '514 has an external bias pin.
The Micro POG doesn't actually route pins 4 & 5 anywhere, so either
chip can be used. I suspect that both are the actually the same die,
with different pads broken out to external pins.
After
replacing the controller IC and the switching diode, I still had a
short from output voltage to ground. The output capacitor (C3) is also
connected across these nodes, so I removed it and then the pedal worked.
C3 is filtering the output of the 3.3V switching supply and doesn't
seem to be always necessary. I don't know the value of C3, but the
datasheet recommends 100uF. A 100uF ceramic capacitor in this package is
actually quite expensive, so I used a 47uF.
The rest of the pedal is very similar to other Electro-Harmonix XO series units. There's a PIC18F2431 microcontroller, a DSP56364AF100 DSP and a PCM3052A audio codec.
When I had this working the "Octave Up" pot felt a bit weird. The shaft had actually broken away form the pot and had been re-inserted. I replaced it with a new 5Kohm part from Smallbear which is an almost perfect match.
That's it. Maybe someday I'll look at the HOG series as well.
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ReplyDeleteI have the same pedal. I got it from a friend and he passed away. The pedal used to work but now it doesn't. I've very limited electronics knowledge and would be willing to pay to have mine fixed. In your opinion, do you think I should try to find someone to repair it, or just toss it and buy another at $200+?
ReplyDeleteThe reason I'm asking you is that your page is the first I've seen deal with these pedals as far as repairs go.
Thanks,
Chuck
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ReplyDeleteHi there. Great post.
ReplyDeleteWould you have advice on the replacement of the foot-switch itself?
Mine has recently developed a fault ( after probably 10 years.)
The effect is engaging properly only 50% of the time when depressing the switch. At other times the signal fades to barely audible / silent and requires agitating or extra clicks to re-engage.
I don't think this is a power issue as it has its very own PP2+ outlet 9v 250mA. And requires only 180 mA.
I've never really liked the loud clicks in most pedals so if a silent /latch type switch could work all the better. Thanks!
Replacement 3PDT switches are easy enough to get. It's quite hard to de-solder them from those small PCBs, I've had the best luck with careful use of hot air.
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ReplyDeleteHi does anyone have a part number for those pots?? I can't seem to able to find a replacement
ReplyDeleteI used these http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/16mm-right-angle-pc-mount-song-huei-16k6-series/
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ReplyDeleteHi there,
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I am looking at a filed EHX micro POG right now. The PPCB is Rev-F and is quite a bit different, using an AKM AK4556 codec (now obsolete), an Analog Devices BF592KCPZ DSP, and an ST 25V05VP serial flash memory (also obsolete). This pedal was drawing too much current and causing a hum in the audio. Turns out the VDD is shorted, and the DSP chip seems to be the culprit - it gets quite hot when using a power supply with more current capability. Replacing this is going to be a bear since there is a thermal pad under the DSP. Best bet is probably to send it back to EHX if they will repair it.
ReplyDelete