http://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/ibanez-echo-shifter-analog-delay-with-modulation-guitar-effects-pedal#reviews
https://www.amazon.com/Ibanez-ES2-Shifter-Analog-Guitar/dp/B00BFWIZGI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473597444&sr=8-1&keywords=ibanez+es2#customerReviews
I wanted to look at these to figure out why, I ended up with two with different faults. These seem to match the most common complaints.
Broken Sliders
This first unit was sent to me already repaired and modded. The previous owner had had someone swap out the footswitches for nicer soft-touch switches. The originals are actuators that press microswitches on the PCB. The new switches worked, but tap-tempo and bypass had been swapped functions. The slider for delay time had also been sheared off and the battery snap had been cut off.
The backside has some opamps (TL072) and some 74HC4040 ripple counters. I don't know what the counters are doing. The toggle switches are wired to the PCB and mounted through the PCB in rectangular cut-outs - I like this, it prevents form turning when the nut is tightened and they are strain-relieved from the rest of the board. J6 has two pins soldered together. The trimpot on the right hand side looks like a mod but may be done at the factory, it looks pretty clean.
The other side has two Coolaudio V3205 4096 stage BBDs, and 2 BL3102 clock drivers. The clock frequencies for the BBDs goes as low as ~3.5 kHz, which is ~500 ms for a 4096 stage delay, so if both BBDs are cascaded then a 1 second analog delay is achieved with a bandwidth in the region of 1-1.5 kHz. This is dark but still sounds very nice for long delays for guitar.
U9 is an Analog Devices ADAU1701 DSP. This device has 2 ADCs and 4 DACs but very little memory, so it seems very unlikely that it is providing any digital delay. I am guessing that this is only handling tap-tempo, bypass, generating the modulation signal and maybe doing filtering and/or compression of the delay signal before and after it hits the BBDs. U13 is 24AA128 EEPROM for the program code.Analog Devices make a visual drag-and-drop programming environment for these DSPs (SigmaStudio) but unfortunately it will not load binary ROM dumps so I can't see what exactly what this chip is doing. I can probably dump this if anyone needs it.
These sliders are a standard 45mm footprint. |
The delay slider is a 10K linear 45mm potentiometer, I used a Bourns part (PTA4543-2015DPB103) as a replacement.
Added a connector to footswitch wiring so I could take the board in and out of the case. |
I also re-did some wiring to swap the footswitches back.
Power Failures
This seems to be the most common problem. I came across a second unit that refused to power up at all. This one had a piece of foam between the battery bracket and the back of the board, and had the original switch PCB and actuators. There was no trimpot with hot-glue this time, but otherwise identical.L1 looking worse for wear. |
I started measuring for power at the 9V jack. No current was drawn, and L1 looked a bit dodgy. This looks like a common-mode choke on the power input, filtering noise along with C7 and C70. The top of the ceramic broke off when touched with a tweezers. I guess this part wasn't rated for the current draw of the pedal, or doesn't handle vibration or shock well.
L1 bridged. |
As this is just a choke, we can jumper straight across it and restore power to the rest of the pedal. I lifted it off with hot-air and used some bus bar to bridge the pads.
Working again, and sounds just like the other one.
Current draw is less than 60 mA on these, which is surprisingly low.
I haven't seen any problems with noise or interference since removing this choke, so I will probably go back to the first pedal and do the same as a preventative measure. It is likely that this filter is need for EMC compliance to stop power cabling radiating the ADAU clock signal. This is a simple enough repair, and only needs the back casing taken off, the board can stay in place inside the pedal.
Hey there, just found this. Can you go a little more in depth about the switch mod you did? I got my unit back from Ibanez service and the on off switch doesn't work, is just always on.
ReplyDeleteEach footswitch just connects one of the outside pins of the 3 pin header to the middle pin, check out the photos above. I just replaced the switch PCB with hardwired switches. If you're on/off switch is bad I would try to touch these pins with something like a screwdriver to see if you can get in and out of bypass mode. This will tell if the problem is with the switch.
DeleteThanks! Are the switches NC or NO, or does it even matter? I found a link on aliexpress for what I think are the same switches used here, but I just want to make sure I get the right ones.
DeleteYou want normally open switches.
DeletePlease, Can you tell me which electronic part L1 is/(was) before ?
ReplyDeleteI don't know. Some kind of choke or ferrite with four terminals. I have no way of knowing the part number without having the schematic. I do know that it can be replaced by separate ferrite beads or jumper wires.
DeleteGreat post. I'm pretty sure I fried mine by plugging in the wrong AC adpater. There was a burning smell then death. I tried replacing C72 (220 uf) on a hunch but no luck. Do you have any idea what the most likely candidate is for the component that got fried?
ReplyDeleteI haven't looked at this pedal in a little while, but I could dig out the one I have left to check.
DeleteDo you have a short between power and ground?
I would imagine that there is a reverse polarity diode near the power connector that should burn out if a high-current AC supply is used, look for shorted diodes, D4 maybe?
Also use your nose, which part smelled like burning? :)
Thanks. I will look at diodes. I tried the sniff test right after it died but by the time I got into the chassis I couldn't tell by nose. Nothing looks burnt.
DeleteHey there I followed your instructions on bridging L1 together and was successful on getting it to power up again. But unfortunately it passes no signal now. Is there a possibility that I could pay you to fix my unit? Email is nate2656@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteHi Nathan, if you have it powered up with no signal I would look at the other post I did on the Echo Shifter here http://falseelectronics.blogspot.ie/2016/10/revisiting-ibanez-echo-shifter.html
DeleteI do sometimes do repairs as a service, but it usually only works out for local people as shipping may inflate the costs depending on where in the world you are. Try the other fixes first.
hello!
ReplyDeleteif you still have your unit, could you please check what is U14?
a friend of mine has a defective unit with U14 (and D4) burnt but i was unable to read its marking. suspect it is a (3v3?) regulator, but what kind?
cheers!
I still have one of these pedals. I will try to get it apart and take a look in the next couple of days. Feel free to remind me here if I forget :)
DeleteI'd be curious too if you had an idea about U14. What I can read off it is 46(or G?)TI B66(orGG), but nothing comes up online. Even searching 10 pin smd voltage regulators doesn't come up with much useful. Anyways, don't mean to bother, you've probably got lots of other stuff to work on. Thanks for all the great info!
DeleteI spoke too soon, a little more digging, and I think it might be this TPS62056, or similar Texas Instruments 800-mA SYNCHRONOUS STEP-DOWN CONVERTER.
DeleteHi Shane, I looked at another one of these with bad U14. TPS62056 is correct, thanks for digging that up.
Deletehttps://falseelectronics.blogspot.com/2019/02/another-ibanez-es2-echo-shifter-repair.html
Hi!
ReplyDeleteIf you can, please check the number of Q7! Maybe 1F, but I can't see my circuit board. I measure ground on hot point of input and output jacks. Thanks!
Thanks for this post with the details on how the Echo Shifter can fail and be fixed!
ReplyDeleteI have repaired my ES2 by replacing two failed inductors with wire bridges, L1 (at power input) and L7 (at output jack). They were both burned and shorting all connections.
I'm so happy that it works again!
Next thing is to replace the Delay Time slider because it is broken. Thanks for mentioning a replacement part for this: 10K linear 45mm potentiometer, Bourns PTA4543-2015DPB103.
And then to fix the foot-switches because of missing springs. Perhaps I'll just replace them completely with mechanical momentary "normally open" foot-switches.
I was already able to fix the foot-switches, that were missing the springs and little metal "feet", by sticking small pieces of rubber on top of the electronic switches. The metal "actuators" can now just press the electronic switches when fully down, without to much stress on them or the underlying PCB. Works great.
Deletehi guys, can i install on it standard knob for delay speed ?
ReplyDeletethat "shifter" is unreliable as fuck ...
and if i do which knob should i install and how ?
thanks !
Hello, I'm looking for the schematic of this pedal, and specifically the value of a capacitor that seems broken = C77. If somebody could measure it for me that would be awesome ;-) Thanks
ReplyDeleteAre those new switches momentary or latching?
ReplyDelete